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Fuel System Upgrade

Fuel System Upgrade

More Fuel to the Holy Trinity.

You do know what the holy trinity is, right? Fuel, spark, compression. I've already put out a write up on upgrading the old fuel system, it has always been on my to-do list.  Finally, we're making a little progress.  The main shunting factor in this project is doing it and keeping the car drivable for the next day.  I don't really have a casual second vehicle, so everything has to be very carefully planned and researched before anything is attempted.
Edit:  As of February of 2015, I acquired the 2g, 98 Eclipse GSX, which will actually be getting this upgrade first.  While Moddy will be getting an identical upgrade in the future, the 2g actually needs it due to a problem with fuel starvation when boosting over 10 psi. Note that the parts should be the same unless otherwise stated, such as the fuel pump hanger/sending units.
As far as this write up goes, its going to listthe basic parts needed.  For the most part, it'll set up you with a good idea for what is coming.  It is still generic, though.  After some thinking this out, putting it on paper, I realized that there are some small things that I will be doing to make it mine. Most of these things will likely get me criticized a bit by the other DSM'ers, my partner, and some others - but that is okay.  At the end of the day, I'm the one doing the driving and the maintenance.   Lead, follow, or get out of the way :).  Any one that feels negatively about what I do can talk trash from behind me.
This page will be the anchor for the project.  All of the parts, write ups, reviews, processes, notes, etc, will be found here.  I'll attempt to go through each major component individually as this progresses. Remember that if you follow these pages for doing this to your car, you're doing so at your own risk.  No one, including myself, is responsible for any damages, injuries,  or otherwise that occur to you, your car, or any one in or around it. Gas is flammable. If incorrectly installed, any fuel system can result in injury or death. So be smart, be safe.  

Write Ups:

  • The original write up can be found here:  Fuel System Upgrade Disclaimer: This is an old article.  I wouldn't bother reading it unless you're interested in seeing how I've evolved on the subject.
  • The new write up can be found here: Fuel System Upgrade

Acquired Parts List:

Notes:

  • Venting the fuel tank.
  • Pre-Regulator Electronic Sensor*
  • Depressurize Service Point*

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Aeromotive - A1000 Fuel Pressure Regulator

One of the more expensive components in this is the pressure regulator.  There are all kinds of these suckers out there, some cheaper than others, some stock, they come from all kinds of different backgrounds and needs.  Fact is, I could had gone with the stock regulator if I had chosen another fuel pump. Since I will be sporting the Walbro 255, there is no stock FPR that will keep up. With the Walbro 190 or stock pump and appropriate connectors, I could had adapted the nipple for the fuel return to an AN fitting.  Personally, since I'm invest all of this time and money on the whole system, I felt like it would be an insult to the system to do all of that. There are also a few perks with doing it this way. I chose the Aeromotive brand due their positive reputation.  They're not known to be junk or cheap.  They aren't bottom of the barrel manufacturers, so I feel confident giving them my money for exchange of a quality part. For my application, I went a little above and beyond.  I got an Aeromotive A1000-6 13109.  This thing has some features that makes it a perfect fit.  For starters, it will raise the pressure 1 psi for every 1 psi of boost it sees via the vac/boost line.  When I had planned this for installation on the N/A Moddy, this would had been irrelevant due to not having a turbo.  How ever, Kyuubi has a nice 20G force feeding it air and already starves the engine of fuel with its' stock lines and FPR if we go above 8 psi on the intake.  The pressure is manually adjustable from 40 psi to over 70 psi, which also is a concern to the N/A set ups, as they run at about 37psi. It has two 10 AN inlets and an 10 AN return port.  It also has a place for a mechanical gauge.  One of the things I've found about this guy, is that you can rebuild it.  If in the future you would rather rebuild than toss it, its possible.  New, these usually come in a kit with the gauge, bracket, some lines, the regulator - all for about $250.00 I got just the gauge, from an ebay seller, used, for about $60. I'll have to make my own mounting bracket, which I'm okay with.  I have a few unique ideas as to where I'll be mounting this but there are some regulations to consider if I seriously want to race this thing in the future.  I'll also have to supply my own fittings and a gauge.  Again, this isn't a huge issue, as it allows me to fine tune where I'm going to install things.

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Fuel Labs - 81812 Fuel Filter

The next component on our parts list is the filter.  The fuel filter was a bit tricky for me.  I wanted something that would look good, stay in the modular design, and be easy to replace.  As with any filtering product, there is a balance of filtration vs flow, so keeping a larger port seemed like a good direction for a daily driver, where filtration was 7 microns or smaller.  In my previous, outdated write up, I had mentioned using a Russell filter that ran about $75 that had a replaceable paper filter element. I decided to try another approach, as a friend of mind offered me a good deal on a Fuel Lab filter, the 81812 model.  Like the Russell, it sported 8AN in and out ports, also had the ability to just replace the filter element.  The specific filter I recieved from him, how ever, came with a steel mesh 40 micron 3 inch element.  He had to explain to me, because I felt like anything that large was worthless, that the steel mesh was the only element that could handle the E85 fuel.  After looking over the other components on the list, the Russell would had held me back from this, initially. So with the Fuel Lab filter in hand, I'm able to swap elements based on the fuel type.  The steel mesh is cleanable, the filter itself can flow up to 200GPH (Gallons Per Hour).  All and all, this makes life a lot easier and allows for me to go continue on with the rest of my project

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Fuel Rail - Stock with Welded AN Fittings

This fuel rail is a bit of an optional route.  I happened to receive this at the same time as the fuel filter, from the same friend.  Its a stock 2g fuel rail with 8AN fittings welded onto the sides.  The reason why its being listed as a component is because I would either have to buy a new fuel rail completely or buy the adapter fittings to mate the stock rail to the AN fittings on the hoses.  Any of the routes are fine, he just happened to have this available.   Which ever route you go, make sure that you have the right fittings for your rail and that you also have the right rail for your head - the 6 bolt heads differ from the 7 bolt heads.  Do you homework on this if you're running a stock fuel rail. The only concern I have on this is that there is a small nick on one of the injector holes.  It doesn't look like its a problem and the previous own claims that it didn't leak for him.  When thinking about where the O-ring sits, it makes sense but I'll definitely be keeping an eye on it.

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